Installing an epoxy floor in Vancouver? A good system is only as strong as the installation. When prep, moisture control, and the right topcoat are done properly, you get a floor that stays bonded and looks sharp for years.
This guide explains how professional epoxy floor installation typically works across Vancouver and the Lower Mainland, so you know what to expect before, during, and after the job.
Step-by-Step: How a Pro Epoxy Install Works
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Step 1Surface Preparation — Where Most Floors Succeed or Fail
Surface prep is the most important stage. If the concrete is dirty, smooth, or weak, the coating won’t stay bonded — no matter how good the product is.
- Remove grease, oil, paint, and old coatings with proper tooling.
- Repair cracks, pits, and spalls with epoxy repair materials.
- Grind or shot-blast to the correct concrete surface profile (CSP).
- Test for moisture and confirm levels meet system requirements.
Done properly, epoxy keys into the concrete instead of sitting on top like paint.
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Step 2Primer and Moisture Control
Next, the slab is sealed and stabilized with a primer (and sometimes a moisture-mitigating base coat). This is especially important in Vancouver’s damp climate.
- Locks down dust and micro-porosity in the slab.
- Improves bond between concrete and build coats.
- Helps reduce bubbles/blisters from vapor pressure.
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Step 3Base Coat / Build Layer
The build layer is where the system is matched to your traffic, impact, and chemical exposure.
- Self-leveling epoxy: smooth finishes for garages and light commercial spaces.
- Quartz/slurry builds: thicker systems with traction and décor.
- Epoxy mortar: heavy-duty, aggregate-reinforced floors for harsh abuse.
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Step 4Decorative Broadcast (Optional)
For more traction or a decorative finish, broadcast media is applied into the wet coat.
- Vinyl flake for classic garage systems.
- Coloured quartz for extra traction in wet areas.
- Metallic pigments for feature spaces and showrooms.
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Step 5Topcoat — Protection and Performance
The topcoat protects against wear, stains, and (when needed) UV exposure.
- Select gloss/satin/matte finish.
- Add traction for ramps, entries, and wet zones.
- Use UV-stable topcoats where sunlight is present.
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Step 6Curing and Return-to-Service
Cure time depends on product choice, temperature, humidity, and thickness.
- Light foot traffic is often allowed after ~24 hours (system-dependent).
- Vehicle traffic/heavy use commonly resumes after 48–72 hours (system-dependent).
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Step 7Maintenance and Long-Term Care
Epoxy is low-maintenance. Simple habits keep it looking better longer.
- Sweep or dust mop regularly to remove grit.
- Mop with a pH-neutral cleaner (avoid harsh chemicals).
- Clean up oils/solvents promptly.
- Re-topcoat high-traffic zones as needed over time.
Can epoxy be installed over cracked concrete?
Yes. Cracks, joints, and surface defects are typically repaired during prep using industrial repair materials before coating.
How thick should an epoxy floor be?
It depends on use. Coatings, slurry/quartz systems, and mortar systems all differ in thickness and performance.
What if my concrete has moisture issues?
Moisture strategy matters. Vancouver slabs often need moisture-tolerant primers or mitigation to reduce blistering and delamination risk.
How long does installation usually take?
Residential garages are often staged over a few days (prep + coating + cure). Larger commercial projects may be phased.
Should I DIY or hire a professional?
DIY kits can work for small low-use areas. For garages and commercial spaces, pro prep + pro materials typically deliver much longer service life.
